French Onion Soup (and The Traveling Onion)
I could go on about French Onion Soup. How my mom makes her own beef broth and puts every other French Onion Soup to shame, how Yancey can eat gallons of it, how disappointing restaurant versions often are.
Before that, though, poetry. It's been awhile since I've inflicted poetry on you. Too long, actually. I discovered Naomi Shihab Nye's onion poem a few years ago in graduate school. Someone brought it to my Facilitation and Group Dynamics class as an illustration of what a good facilitator does--"For the sake of others, disappear." But I've just given away the punchline. Let's let it speak for itself:
The Traveling Onion
"It is believed that the onion originally came from India. In Egypt it was an object of worship-why I haven't been able to find out. From Egypt the onion entered Greece and on to Italy, thence into all of Europe."--Better Living Cookbook
When I think how far the onion has traveled
just to enter my stew today, I could kneel and praise
all small forgotten miracles,
crackly paper peeling on the drainboard,
pearly layers in smooth agreement,
the way knife enters onion
and onion falls apart on the chopping block,
a history revealed.
And I would never scold the onion
for causing tears.
It is right that tears fall
for something small and forgotten.
How at meal, we sit to eat,
commenting on the texture of meat or herbal aroma
but never on the translucence of onion,
now limp, now divided,
or its traditionally honorable career:
For the sake of others,
disappear.
--Naomi Shihab Nye
This poem was written for me--the cook in me, the facilitator in me, the newly minted photographer and observer that notices "the way knife enters onion." Everything begins with an onion. They're so central to everything, but in a back-of-the-house kind of way. My mom says that, if she doesn't have onions in the house, there's nothing she can cook.
And disappearing for the sake of others--they do that! They melt into the sauce, stew, or risotto so herbs or meat can shine. I've got a lot to learn about disappearing for the sake of others. Certainly there are times that don't call for disappearing (and I'm a self-proclaimed ham), but there are lots and lots of times when disappearing is the kindest, wisest thing to do. The more I can flavor something without overtaking it, the better my relationships, my work, my presence in the world.
I love French Onion Soup because it gives the lowly onion its due. For once, it's not being asked to disappear, to collaborate. It's front and center, hamming it up. Melted Gruyére and broth-soaked bread don't hurt, either. And I love to see Yancey eat it, head bent, slurping and content.
French Onion Soup
Serves six, with maybe a little bit of leftovers. Adapted from the Gourmet cookbook. I don't think French Onion Soup is worth eating without the cheese and toast on top, but neither do I like the soup to be totally obliterated by the cheese and bread. If you are into making your own beef broth, you certainly can. I'd rather spend my time reading food blogs.
12 fresh parsley stems
1 ts. dried thyme
12 black peppercorns
2 bay leaves
4 Tb. unsalted butter
2 Tb. olive oil
3 lbs. onions, thinly sliced
salt
freshly ground pepper
pinch of sugar
4 Tb. flour
10 c. beef stock
2/3 c. dry vermouth
4 Tb. Cognac or other brandy
4 ts. Wrocestershire sauce, or to taste
For topping:
olive oil
6 slices artisan bread
2 c. grated Gruyére
handful fresh thyme, finely chopped
Tie parsley stems, thyme, peppercorns, and bay leaves in a small square of cheescloth with a string to make a boquet garni.
Melt butter and oil in a large, heavy stockpot over moderately love heat. Add onions, salt, and pepper and cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until onions are soft, about 20 minutes. Add sugar increase heat to moderate, and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until onions are golden brown, 15-18 minutes.
Add flour to cook, stirring, for 3 minutes. Stir in stock, vermouth, bouquet garni, and salt and pepper to taste and bring to a boil, stirring, Reduce heat, partially cover, and simmer, skimming off froth occasionally, for 30 minutes. Discard bouquet garni. Stir in cognac and worcestershire sauce.
To Gratinée and Serve:
Fry both sides of bread slices in olive oil over medium high heat until golden, about 2 minutes per side.
Ladle soup into ovenproof bowls and top each with a slice of fried bread and handful of grated Gruyére. Broil 4-6" from heat until cheese is golden, about one minute. Scatter fresh thyme over the top.
If you're using an ovenproof stockpot and feeding a crowd, you can also gratinée the whole darn thing and serve from the pot.
November 19, 2009
Reader Comments (23)
sarah...it looks DIVINE. i want to slurp it right off my computer screen.
Hi Sarah,
What a great poem. Onions are the base of so many meals, it's true. I've met a few people who say they don't like onions, and I always feel sorry for them. They're missing out! Enjoyed reading your tales of your trip to NYC. Always enjoy your writing, photos, and recipes.
Yum, Sarah. And what a beautiful post.
Jordan and I are on a quest to make the perfect French Onion Soup. I bought soup crocks last year just for the occasion. We found a few recipes and combined them. Couple of interesting notes:
1. Add some apple cider or apple juice. A cup or so. It adds a complexity to the broth that is fantastic with the onions.
2. Beef consumme' can be subbed for the broth (diluted, of course). Also adds depth of flavor
3. Gruyere, which I LOVE, is expensive. Gouda is a less expensive cheese, but is still very ooey gooey yummy.
We're still working on it. Check back in 20 years. I'm sure we'll have it sorted by then.
All I want for Christmas is this soup.
pds, can we make one night of the week french onion soup night?
Lol! I was thinking the same!
oh i love you. perhaps in january we can go another round at it?
Sarah, I've never been a huge fan of French Onion Soup (or rather, the idea of it... I've never actually eaten it!) but I think this one may turn me... I think the way you toasted the french bread on top with the Gruyere did it for me! One little question, though... you say to use "t ts. fresh thyme"...?? :D
Thanks for always having something on here to brighten my day! I love the poem about the onion... it's so true of all of us, that we can often bring so much more to something by fading into the background, leaving room for something/someone else to shine.
And I'm going to make this soup... I might even treat my family to it at Thanksgiving... my contribution to the bounty that we all enjoy and often overlook! Have a great holiday!
Hi April. This would be a delicious choice for Thanksgiving. I'm so happy to have had you as a reader and commenter here for so long :)
The recipe calls for dried thyme in the bouquet garni and fresh thyme on top. If you don't have thyme growing like I do and you have to buy it, I'd use fresh in both places.
Hi Sarah,
A few weeks back I saw an episode of the Cook's Illustrated TV program (don't know what it is called) where they were making French onion soup. They filled a Dutch oven with sliced onions and baked them down for hours. It looked like an intersting approach, but you have to pay to read the recipes on their site....I don't want to pay to read a recipe, so I am going to try yours! BTW, I visit your blog every day. I love your photography and see what you're up to in the kitchen.
Julie
I've been thinking about onion soup for 2 weeks now and wanting to make some - what wonderful timing for this blog entry of yours! Thank you so much!
This looks fantastic! I'm a huge fan of French onion soup and this recipe looks delicious...yum!
:) I am curious about the measurement, though... can you just use any amount of thyme in the bouquet garni, or is there a specific amount...? I am totally going to make this next week... I'm so excited to taste it, my mouth is watering already! :)
THIS is the soup I want to make TONIGHT. Your post came just in time- I love French Onion soup!
Yum! If you don't find yourself at the MK dinner table or with the energy to make it yourself, try the french onion soup at Cafe Presse...Divine on a cool day in the hood. I know it won't compare to home made or Sarah's thoughtfulness at leaving the cheese off for those of us that shouldn't have it, but it's a worthy substitute.
So many things to praise in the background that are giving us so much.
Thanks for posting poetry as well as inspiring food, Sarah. I always give a little interior cheer when I see all the writing :)
This looks wonderful! I'm wondering about the measurement of the dried thyme, too, though. :)
Hi Danielle. Finally found the typo everyone's been referring to. It's one teaspoon...
Hi Julie. You visit every day?! I'm so flattered. Thank you. I've been to the Cooks Illustrated site before and been so disappointed that I couldn't see what I wanted to without paying. This version sounds easier anyway :)
Sounds like the two of you should write this post next time. You know what happens when you broadcast research like this...you have to demonstrate. I'm ready.
Even though this soup is "just" onions, it's expensive to make. The bread and cheese and stock/consumme add up. It also takes 45 minutes to do the onions, since I don't add sugar to speed up the process. Total cooking time is close to 90 minutes.
That said, we should definitely do this sometime soon. Probably on a Wednesday or Sunday or something.
What a beautiful post.
I really love French Onion soup (but i love good advice and tweaks in recipes) and the poem (I thought it was written for me)
Does it matter what kind of onion you use? Red, yellow, white?