In Praise of Monotony (and Buttermilk Cornbread)
Didn't I threaten that you were going to see these beans again? Not an idle threat, clearly. Tonight, my favorite cornbread, warmed beans, fried eggs, salsa, and chunks of avocado. Oh--and a bit of sharp white cheddar. I love to see Wyatt scarf this cornbread. He could never be on the Atkins Diet. I often make cornbread when we're in the middle of a big batch of beans because the kids love it and it breaks up the monotony a bit.
But I'm praising monotony today. My friend Kerri, an AMAZING mother who's raising three girls by herself, was telling me how much dinnertime stresses her out. She's gets home from a really demanding job, her kids are hungry, and she feels a lot of pressure to put something creative, nutritious, and novel on the table. I told her to let her worries about variety go. Her kids are happy and well-fed and she's got enough to think about. And then I told her about the refugee families in Chad.
On vacation, I read the amazing book Hungry Planet. Hungry Planet photographs 30 families from around the world with all the food they eat in a week--a refugee family in Chad with a bag of sorghum and some dried tomatoes, and a Texan family with more processed food than they can fit in their kitchen. A Bhutanese family that grows or tends every single thing they eat and an urban Aboriginal family that subsists on McDonald's. But mostly I keep thinking about that refugee family, eating small rations of gruel three times a day for as far into the future as they can imagine. Sometimes a little dried meat if they're lucky.
Don't get me wrong--I don't want to glamorize that life. It's sad, depressing, and wrong that they are suffering while lots of us sit around reading food blogs looking for new ways to prepare our farmers' market veggies. I don't want us to stop eating diets full of freshness and variety, but I do want us to be thankful for it and also know it's alright to eat the same (healthful) thing day after day. It gives us some solidarity with people who do it without choice, and gives us more appreciation for a perfect peach or decadent dessert.
I also read Christopher Kimball's Kitchen Detective on vacation, and found this lovely tidbit from him:
Most cooks I know are constantly looking for new recipes the way some folks are constantly on the lookout for antiques, clothes, computer software...There is nothing wrong with living life vicariously through recipes--we all do it to some extent--but the problem with most home cooks is that they have too many recipes rather than too few...Like good musicians, good cooks [realize] that restricting one's repertoire has great advantages: It allows one to focus on the underlying technique instead of just a new set of notes...So, my suggestion is to start with shortlist of 25 recipes that you make most often, and stick with them for a bit. As you get better, slowly increase your range.
So, in the spirit of sameness, here's the cornbread recipe I've made a million times. Sometimes they're muffins, other times it's bread in a square pan, but I can do this in my sleep. 5 minutes for mixing, 15 or 20 minutes in the oven while Wyatt sets the table and I warm that same old pot of beans (for which I am very grateful).
My Favorite Cornbread
From Epicurious.
1 cup yellow cornmeal
1 cup unbleached all purpose flour
1/4 cup sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup buttermilk
1 large egg
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, cooled slightly
Preheat oven to 375°F. Butter 12 regular (1/3-cup) muffin cups or an 8" square baking pan. Sift cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt into medium bowl. Whisk buttermilk and egg in another medium bowl; whisk in melted butter. Add buttermilk mixture to dry ingredients; stir just until incorporated (do not overmix). Divide batter equally among prepared muffin cups (or pour into pan). Bake until tester inserted into center comes out clean, about 15 minutes for muffins and 20-25 for bread. Cool for 10 minutes.
August 10, 2009
Reader Comments (14)
Sarah, this is a lovely post, and I appreciate the noble sentiment. But personally, I can never, ever EVER praise monotony. If I only had gruel to eat, I'd eating it sitting down one day, standing up one day, while walking one day, by myself one day, with a crowd one day, and maybe while standing on my head one day just to see if it was possible. It's just that I'm not capable of monotony. It is both my blessing and my curse...
At first I thought this was a post in praise of monogamy...which would be a very, very different discussion...or would it? I guess monogamy could be monotonous in the eyes of some. Anyways, I thought you'd like this post on Hungry Planet:
http://rhubarbandvenison.blogspot.com/2008/10/one-week-of-food.html
Naomi, I've never met you but I can tell you that I would like you. I can relate to you way more than I would like to admit. Monotony, is a curse word for me, but your solution is absolutely brilliant. That's exactly what I'd do if I had to eat the same thing every day, and the fact I don't ,makes me a very grateful person.
Sameness. If I had Chesterton's "Orthodoxy" handy, I'd quote him directly. I don't, so I'll paraphrase: God himself shows us to exult in sameness, just like children play their favorite game with you again and again and again. The sun rises day by day, basically in the same old way, and God - like a child - watches and squeals, "Do it again. Do it again."
Since reading Chesterton, I think of him almost every time I play with Loretta. Like in the clothesline sheets hanging to dry on the dock at Ross Lake. Lord knows how many times she hid, laughed when I said, "Where's Loretta?," and shrieked with delight when she was found. We've played similar games often. The sameness of her repeated response is what makes it the most fun for me. It's not long before I'm laughing as much as she is.
We may not all shriek with delight when we pull out the same ole pot of beans, but, I agree, variety isn't all it's cracked up to be.
I made your drunken beans today, and the "yellow grits" as my children call the polenta...and am thankful that now I have less to think about for tomorrow's meal....they were fantastic! I didn't have tomatoes but I did have chunky mango salsa, which made a worthy substitution. I would love to see more bean recipes. Budget and nutrition suggest that they should as our main dish several times a week....while I'm not afraid of monotony (or monogamy, for that matter, did you know Target carries a Cab-Sauv called "Monogamy"?!) I am looking for a few new beans to add to the repertoire! Many, many thanks for the inspiration, imagination, and motivation.
I think being in Korea has forced me to be a better cook, because there are so few ingredients available that I end up making the same 5 things over and over...and then start adapting them if I find new ingredients.
That Hungry Planet book sounds like one of my favorites, Material World, which shows families from different countries and all the stuff they have. It's pretty eye-opening.
That was beautiful...I think I will be mulling this idea all day. Thank you.
Sarah...I would also love more yummy ways to cook beans. I'm making these today to stretch the cabbage salsa David made last night.
Allison (or whoever else is looking for more bean recipes) I have posted one below. This is simple and so good..from the Cafe Flora cookbook. It's a standard side at our house.
Ingredients: 1 lb pinto beans (or 3 15 oz cans), 2 Tablespoons Chipolte Chile Puree (which is just pureed Chipolte Chiles in Adobo sauce out of the can), 2 tsp cumin seeds toasted and ground (I have just used regular cumin), 4 cloves garlic mined, 2 tsps hot pepper sauce, 3 Tablespoons tamari or soy sauce.
After preparing the beans (or rinsing and warming the canned ones), put hot beans in a food processor with their liquid, add all remaining ingredients. Process until you get the desired consistency. You can add water if you desire a smooth puree.
These are a great side dish. I sprinkle w/ mexican cheese.....so good.
Anyone else have some yummy bean recipes? I bet Sarah could tweak them all and make them even better.
Also....do you simmer the beans covered or uncovered?
Hi Jackie! I took the lid on or off depending on how the liquid was looking. I'd start with them covered. After you put in the tomatoes, etc., see how the liquid looks. If you want them to thicken up, leave the lid off. If there's plenty, leave the lid off for awhile. It's easier to add more liquid (water) if it's too thick than to take it out. I like my beans a little bit soupy.
At my favorite cafe in Seattle right now. Next time you are here, we'll have to make a date to come here. You would love it. Thanks for the bean recipe--it looks delicious.
GK always has such wonderful things to say.
I shoud say, I actually have great appreciation for monotony and sameness, precisely because it's not something that comes naturally to me. And even I would admit, I need a foundation of sameness and consistency as a good foundation to support my own God-given penchant for always trying something new. I'm thankful he gave us the reliablity of the sunrise; I delighted by the life and seasons that make each day it's own unique moment of beauty and ugliness.
Chris Kimball's advice is spot-on. I know exactly the feeling of having too many recipes to work with. I've told friends and family to stop buying me cookbooks for now, so I can splatter through those I already own. And the cornbread and beans - wonderful.
Cheers,
*Heather*
I have yet to make dried beans do my bidding, but I am looking forward to co-opting some black turtle beans I just bought. I did try this recipe for cornbread (my first time ever for cornbread, hope you feel honored! ;-), and it is pretty dern good- has that wholesome, good-with-anything taste to it. It did become crumbly very fast though- any way to prevent that with storage or ingredients? I simply reheat a piece with wet paper towel if I want it plain and warm.
Hi Margaret!
If you want a sturdier cornbread, I'd recommend one not made with buttermilk. This recipe does produce pretty fragile squares/muffins. And yes, I do feel honored!